Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
